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Could be it went bad, or it is just not plugged in good. I assume you cleared the codes, and it is coming back.

​@@CurmudgeonTransmissionyes,have cleared codes keeps coming back starts shifting hard. Are they any valves that could be stuck causing this? When I built it 3 years ago I put all new ac delco sensors and solenoids in it.

What is the exact code you are getting?

​@@CurmudgeonTransmissionpo842 and hard shifts

Voltage low means the switch is showing that the TCC is engaged all the time. Usually, it is a bad pressure switch manifold. It will be that or a pinched wire.

You're welcome

There is a nail that holds the rod in the case. I use a heel bar to get that out. There is a roll pin that holds the IMS to the rod. I use a pair of end cutters to grab onto it and use it as a heel bar to pull it out. You can also use a dowel pin puller to get it out.

From the dealer they use the STUECKL# on the tag. Here is a good resource for you. I believe the 19, 26 & 28 all begin with 1068. aftermarket.zf.com/remotemedia/pdfc-media/pdfc-files/pdfc-downloads-1/2017-2/pdfc-6hp19a-catalog.pdf

Yes, I see them all the time. It is hit and miss on the parts. Things have gotten crazy since Covid.

It requires modifying a puller to get up under it. There is quite a bit of force required to get it off. Thanks for watching.

I have only seen a handful of these so, it is possible. Assuming we are talking about the same part. Now the early units did not have one under the support. It is actually called a fretting ring. They can be updated with the late support that uses that ring. If that is how it came to you and the clearance was correct, I would say that is how it should be. As far as the air checks, that is normal.

Welcome

Thanks

Thanks for watching.

Thanks

Impossible to say how long they will last. Easier to replace them now if you can afford it.

Thanks for watching.

The factory kit is an excellent kit. It will come with most of what you will need. Of course you won't know everything you will need until you get it apart. I would add the solenoid assembly, VLP solenoid as well as the transducer to that kit at a minimum.

3500-5K probably.

Thanks for watching.

Think you mispositioned the manual valve on the linkage.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission the selector shaft rooster tail? Or which valve? The one that slides back and forth when installing

@@joseespinoza93 Could be either, but probably the one that slides back and forth.

If the slider is siezed it usually happens because it was run low on fluid. When that happens it usually takes out the input shaft, counter shaft, slider and hub. Sometimes the main shaft and fork as well.

Dealership, WIT or Transtar.

I have never rebuilt one of these. I tried to find the specs on it and could not find it. However, I would think it would be like others. 16-20 in. lbs. I would imagine.

Could be a valve body, accumulator or 4C Piston problem.

Maybe. There are numbers on the right side of the transmission on top by the bell housing. Sometimes on the rear cover. If there are numbers after it, like A6GF1-2 they would have to match.

You are correct. It should be by the drain hole and toward the pump gears. I have seen them pointing other directions however with no issues. And since it spun the rear stator bushing also, I would check a couple of other things as well. Make sure both dowel pins are in the engine block. Make sure the battery is good, and the grounds are good and clean. Make sure the flywheel is not warped. The rear bushing spinning out makes me lean more towards bad battery or grounds. I have never had to finish that bushing in place. Now Toyota's, especially the older ones you can run into that issue, but I have never heard of it on a Ford.

Well something is definitely wrong!!!! I got it back together today with a reman pump from TransStar (I looked it over, new gears, new bushings, seal) new seals on the stator, fresh forward drum I cleaned it up, replaced frictions/steels, pressure tested with the drum in the pump, and replaced both bushings in the reverse drum. End play felt nice, input shaft turned smooth. The dowel inserts are both there. Took it on maybe a 1 mile road test. Nothing stupid just checking for shift feel, it drove well. Went and got my things to go home and looked under the truck to find a puddle of fluid right under the converter. I’m at a bad place with it right now. We just put a motor in too and we need it gone.

I assume you are talking about the CPC spring in the valve body that is bad about breaking. Sonnax makes a spring for the early ones (Up-99). It is a bit shorter than the later ones, which don't break near as often. You will just need to take the measurements off the old spring and find one close to it. I believe they are .615 long, .231 OD and .028 wire diameter.

First thing to check is the PWM solenoid. Pull it out and check the screen in the tip of it and see if it is missing. If it is you will need to go into the valve body and find the piece. Then replace the solenoid.

Thanks for watching them. Never seen a difference between doing it and not. So, I choose not to. If you feel compelled to do it, then by all means do it.

Thanks. Filter is more than likely clogged. Usually, the torque converter is coming apart, clogging it up. But it can be anything else coming apart also, doing the same thing.

The factory made a viscous coupling diff. for it. It does take different axle stubs for it, so you will need those as well. There are companies that sell them as well. Raybestos makes hi-energy clutches for them as well. You can get them from WIT or Transtar. Links are in the description. Thanks for watching. gripperlsd.com/product-category/toyota/

@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks mate for info 👍

Could be a lot of reasons for hard shifts. First thing you will need to determine is if high line pressure is being commanded or if it is doing it itself. First check would be line pressure. If it is high, you will need to determine why. If it is being commanded, what is causing the command. Check all things that tell the computer engine load. If it is not being commanded it may be a bad EPC, stuck PR valve, etc.

I appreciate the answer back..would be nice if I understand transmissions the way you...but it seems to have fixed itself somehow now I'm really at a lose can't fix it if it's working right🤷🏻‍♂️...but I will Chek those things if it does it again..and thanks again sir!!!!!

Glad it helped, thanks for watching.

Thanks. The ring is just held in by tension. The valve body is really what holds them in. Just put them in a little below flush. If you try to go too far there will be too much tension and it will pop them out.

Pardon me for using the wrong word.

Hard to say what has happened. Maybe a broken pump.

Yeah, a lot of dealerships don't want anyone going into the units. Thanks for watching.

I don't own the shop. You can call it and talk to them. However, if you are not in the area, they don't do carry out units. Go to my Instagram.

As far as how to rebuild it, basically one. There a few different ratios. Different planets, drums, etc.. But it is put together the same.

You bet! Thanks for watching.

Thanks.

Thanks for watching.

I don't remember if I did on this one. I generally do. The 2 primary ones that need replacing are the one in the input drum and the one in the diff. housing.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you! For a 2002 Volvo S80, when installing a Superior K4T65E shift kit, would you replace the 1-2 Accumulator valve spring with the spring supplied in the kit labeled for Heavy Duty / Taxi or just leave the stock spring?

@@sdk188 I only put it in the SS model Chevy's. I leave it stock in everything else.

Also have you posted the rebuild video ?

You will probably need molded pistons for it as well. They are a pure SOB to install also. I go over it in the video. Transgo sells a tool as well as a valve (AFL Valve) for the valve body that you will need. I don't have the rebuild video up yet. I usually post it on Patreon first and there is a lot of extra info I post on each transmission there. I have had trouble getting that extra info, so I haven't done it yet. The videos on RUclips have a more condensed version and that is ready to go. I may just go ahead and post that before I do the Patreon as I have had several people asking for the rebuild video on here. I'll try to have that done in the next couple of days. transgo.com/product-details/5l40-afl-pressure-regulator/

ruclips.net/video/myvLhk3v5x8/видео.html

I don't recall saying that, but maybe I did. There are 2 different versions of the transmission. The split was around 2007. One of these should be correct. ruclips.net/video/N_gigp4NiJY/видео.html ruclips.net/video/rJzVt5nkAYE/видео.html

Sounds like you did something wrong. To leak that fast you are probably looking at the front seal or cooler line.

Not always, but yes. I have seen issues with not using the recommended fluid. And I would never mix fluids. Using a different fluid on a fresh build, maybe. But like I said, you can run into issues.

I'm not completely clear on the drum you are talking about.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission last one before the pump

It seems like that bearing is stopping it from going down all tge way thinking bearings are in wrong but they don't seem to be switchable

Did you put new bushings in it? Did you try your shafts in each spot before you tried putting it together? Had one yesterday that the bushing in the direct drum was too tight and would not let the drum go in.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission I will check

The transmission would have to be completely taken apart to change out the output shaft to do that.

If 1st gear is ok you either have a reverse band/servo problem or #5 check ball problem. While it is rare for the reverse band to break, I have seen it happen. BTW, there are 2 #5 check balls. They are both in the valve body side. The large one on the left and the small one just below it.

​@@CurmudgeonTransmission I'm fixing to start on it and see what happened, thank you!

@@CurmudgeonTransmission I drove it this morning when cold reverse seemed fine till it got up to temp,then it started like slipping in reverse, it's like a shutter but it still backs up, just removed reverse servo and everything seems fine on it. It did raise pressure up I guess from detecting a slip. Can any of the electric solenoids cause this, when I rebuilt it 3 years ago I put all new acdelco solenoids in it.

Should have problems in other gears also. Did your kit come with the metal channel plate gaskets or paper?

​@@CurmudgeonTransmissionI'm pretty sure it was metal gaskets, kit I ordered was deluxe L2 kit with red clutches.

Glad you think so! Thanks for watching.